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Instructions on basic sewing techniques Basic sewing instructions

Basic Sewing Techniques:

Types of Stitches:

Throughout our web site we have indicated the use of different types of stitches which some of you may be unfamiliar with. This page lists a number of the techniques used for these stitches, describes them and with the use of illustrations shows how to sew them.

New instructions available


Backstitch:

Illustration of backstitch
 
Backstitch is the strongest hand stitch and is used to imitate machine stitches. Work backstitch from right to left.
Begin with a couple of stitches worked on the spot, then take a stitch and a space.
Take the needle back over the space and bring it out the same distance in front of the thread.
Continue to the end of the seam.
Fasten off with a couple of stitches on the spot.
 

Catchstitch:

Illustration of catch stitch
 
 
This is a hemming stitch used for bulky fabrics or curved areas.
Work from right to left.
Fasten the thread to the edge of the folded fabric with a few backstitches. Make a diagonal stitch from right to left, then, with the needle pointing to the left, make a small stitch in the fabric from right to left.
Bring the needle out and make a diagonal stitch from right to left.
Do not pull the thread too tight.

Hemming Stitch:

Illustration of hemming stitch
 
Work from right to left with a single thread.
Fasten the thread with a knot inside the hem.
Bring the needle out of the hem and pick up a few threads of flat fabric just above the folded edge.
Make the same stitch through the folded fabric.
Work your way along the hem making the stitches as invisible as possible on the right side.

Herringbone Stitch:

Illustration of Herringbone stitch
 
 
This stitch neatens a single hem and catches it to the fabric at the same time.
Work from left to right.
Secure the thread with a few backstitches.
Make a long diagonal stitch from left to right across the raw edge and back through the flat fabric, about 0.25" (6mm) from the hem edge.
With the needle pointing to the left, make a small stitch in the fabric from right to left.
Bring the needle out and make another long diagonal stitch from left to right so that the threads cross.
The stitches should be evenly spaced and the same size.

Oversewing Stitch:

Illustration of oversewing stitch
 
 
Oversewing, or overcasting is the best way to neaten a raw edge by hand to prevent the fabric from fraying.
Relate the length of the stitch to the fabric and how badly it will fray.
Begin with a few backstitches.
Make diagonal stitches over the raw edge, spacing them equally and the same length. Be careful not to pull the stitches too tight.

Running Stitch:

Illustration of running stitch
 
 
This stitch is used for seams and for gathering.
Fasten the thread with a few backstitches and work small stitches by passing the needle over and under a few fabric threads and pulling through the fabric. Keep the stitches and spaces as even as possible.

Slipstitch:

Illustration of slipstitch
 
This stitch is used for holding a folded edge to a flat piece of fabric.
Work from right to left with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the hem.
Bring the needle out through the folded edge, pick up a few threads of fabric and then work through the fold again.
Slide the needle along, come out of the fold to make the next stitch.

Tacking Stitch: (Basting)

Illustration of tacking stitch
 
This is used to hold fabric in position while it is being permanently stitched. Work with single or double thread, knotted at the end, and make evenly spaced stitches in and out of the fabric.
End a line of tacking with 1 backstitch.
To release tacking stitches, cut off the knot and pull out the thread.

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