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Ready made heading tape: |
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The number of cords and the way the cords are
threaded in the heading tape makes the pattern of pleats. The pleats
are sharpest when the cords are drawn up tightly. There can be 2,
3, or 4 cords for drawing up the pleats. Most tapes have more than
1 row of pockets for the hooks to adjust the height of the heading. |
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Simple gathered heading tape: |
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Many shallow gathers are evenly spaced across
the curtain. Use the tape for curtains whose top is behind a pelmet
or valance. Multiply the track width by 1½-2 when estimating
for fabric. |
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Pencil-pleated
heading tape: |
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The stiffened tape is available in several depths
from 2½in to 6in (6cm to 15cm). A lightweight version is
suitable for net curtains. Some tapes have three rows of pockets
for hooks. Use the top row if the curtain is to hang below a pole.
Use a lower row to make the heading stand up the required amount
to conceal a track. Multiply the track width by 2-2½ when
estimating for fabric. |
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French, triple or pinch pleated heading tape: |
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Fans of pleats are made by drawing cords or by
multi-pronged hooks. The synthetic tape will suit all fabrics including
nets. Several depths from 1½in to 5½in (4cm to 14cm)
are available. The deepest is best suited to floor-length curtains.
There are two rows of pockets, one for curtains hanging below a
pole, the other for headings to cover a track. Multiply the track
width by 2 when estimating for fabric.
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Tab top headings: |
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Are loops of fabric stitched onto the top seam
and omit the need for heading tape but need to be placed on the
pole before hanging. You should also remember to take the length
of the tabs into consideration when measuring. |
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Cased
headings: |
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A simple cased heading is used mainly for nets
and lightweight unlined curtains that are not to be opened and closed
frequently (tie-backs can be used to hold them open). A casing or
channel sewn across the top is left open at the ends. A slender
curtain rod or plastic covered spring wire slots through the
channel and fits onto hooks or into sockets at the side of the window.
Multiply the rod or wire length by at least 2when estimating fabric. |
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Hand made pinch, triple, French or goblet pleated
headings: |

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Button goblet pleats make a very elegant heading
for floor length curtains. Triple pleats fall from each goblet which
can be stuffed with tissue paper or cotton wool to retain their
shape. Multiply the track width by 2.5 when estimating for fabric.
To calculate for pleats, measure curtain's width and halve it. Take
away 2" (5cms) (position of first pleat) and divide remainder
into even widths of 4"-6" (10-12.5cms). The number of
even widths equals the number of pleats, the size of the width is
the width of the pleat.
To calculate the gap width, measure curtain's width and halve it
as before,take away 2" (5cms) and divide by number of pleats
minus one.
Mark positions for pleats along top edge of curtain by starting
2" (5cms) in from edge, mark width of pleat, width of gap,
width of pleat, width of gap alternately. Finish with a width of
pleat and a space of 2" (5cms) at other end of curtain. |
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Hand made box pleated headings: |
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Box pleat headings give a very tailored look and
drape into deep folds down the full length of the curtain. The pleats
butt onto each other with no interval between them. Multiply the
track width by 3 when estimating for fabric. |
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Scalloped cafe headings: |
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This scalloped heading makes a decorative top
on a curtain hung permanently across the lower part of the window.
The scallops are cut from a home made pattern and hang from a slender
rod. Multiply the rod width by at least 1¼ when estimating
for fabric. |