There are times when a blind that pulls up from the bottom is required. Roman blinds can be made in this way to give privacy but not stop light coming into a room and, teamed up with a pelmet, can give a unique and unusual look. Bottom up blinds or bottom up shades are more suitable outside the window recess where there is a narrow window sill. Fixing wires, to keep the blind against the window, are placed at the sides of the window frame to make them less obtrusive. I have chosen to use "net wires" as this is the cheapest and simplest way but for a more elegant solution brass poles or café rods could be used but would need fixing brackets of some description. When the blind is lowered (open) the pleats will fall below the bottom edge of the blind. If fitted inside the window recess the pleats will lay on the window sill and could get damp if used in a kitchen or bathroom.
These free illustrated sewing instructions will enable you to make your own bottom up blind to enhance your window treatments.

Requirements:

Making the blind: Step 1:

To fit the curtain wires in place screw eyes into the front edge of the window sill at each side of the window frame.

Screw eyes into the front edge of the top of the window frame or a batten above the window directly above the screws on the window sill.

Cut net wire to required lengths and screw hooks into each end. These wires must be very taut when attached to the eyes.

Hook the wires onto the eyes at top and bottom of the window.

Measure between the eyes on the window frame, and add 1" (2.5 cms) to give you the length of your blind. Add a further 2" (5 cms) for hems.

Measure across the outside of the window frame and add 1" (2.5 cms) to each side to give you the width of your blind. Add a further 2" (5 cms) for hems.

Take care to cut fabric accurately along grain, centralising and positioning any pattern. To spot grain: Lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft) threads of fabric should be woven at right angles on fabric. These are the grain lines, and patterns on fabric should be printed to follow these lines exactly.

Cut out lining fabric to exactly the same measurements as the top fabric.

Lay top fabric flat on table, face up.

Lay lining, face down, on the top. Smooth out all wrinkles and creases from the two fabrics and pin them together.

Machine sew down both sides and along the base 1" (2.5cms) from the raw edges.

Making the blind: Step 2:

Remove all pins, trim the corners and turn the blind the right way out.

Press blind, taking care to press out and flatten seams.

Lay blind flat, this time with lining face up, and pin the two layers together all over.

Draw a pencil line 2" (5 cms) down from the top raw edge and divide the remainder of the blind equally into 8" - 12 " (20 - 30 cms) sections.

Draw pencil lines across the blind at these points so that they are parallel to each other and at right angles to the sides. These will be the sewing lines for the pockets to hold the dowels. Each pleat or fold needs a dowel to support the fabric from behind and pockets need to be made from lining to cover them. Rings are then sewn to these pockets to support the blind on the wires.

Making the blind: Step 3:

To make up the pockets to hold the dowels, cut strips of lining fabric 3 " (7.5 cms) wide and as long as the blind is wide.

If possible, cut these strips from the length of the fabric rather than across the width as the weave is tighter and the pockets will wear better.

Cut as many strips as you have marked sewing lines on your blind.

Fold in and press a seam allowance of 0.5" (12mm) all around each strip of fabric.

Fold strip in half width ways and pin the open edges together.

Machine sew one side and along the length.

Making the blind: Step 4:

Pin the folded side of the pockets to the pencil lines, setting the pockets about 0.5" (12mm) from each side of the blind.

Thread up the sewing machine with threads to match both the top fabric and lining and check the tension.

Do this by testing the machine with two different coloured threads, one colour on the top and with bobbin threaded up with second colour.

Make sure that only one colour shows from front of fabric, with second colour only showing on back. Alter tension accordingly.

It is always worth using a new sewing machine needle.

Sew the pockets to the blind along the pencil markings.

The machine stitching should be as unobtrusive as possible on the front of the blind.

Making the blind: Step 5:

Place a batten on the wrong side of the lining ½" (13 mm) from top raw edge and oversew to the lining along it's length. Take the stitches through the lining and over the batten.

Turn in 1" (2.5 cms) of lining (including the batten) and face fabric at the top edge and slipstitch

Slide a length of wooden doweling  into each pocket and oversew open ends.

Hand sew rings to each dowel pocket, bottom edge of blind and on 1" (2.5 cms) line from top edge to coincide with the position of the net wires.

Thread the net wires up through all of the rings at the back of the blind and hook onto eyes.

Attach nylon cord to the top 2 rings and thread through the eyes at the top of the window taking them both to one side.

Cut nylon cords level, with the blind in the lowered position, and thread them through the acorn. Knot to secure.

Attach the cleat to the wall at a convenient height.

Trim the nylon cord if necessary.