Austrian Blinds or Austrian shades are in reality a curtain, and are made up as such. The only differences being that the blind is pulled up from the bottom to top by means of cords attached at the back, and is made longer than the required finished drop. This extra fabric forms ruching, which are the main feature of Austrian Blinds. To get the best effect an Austrian Blind track should be used to hang the blind from.
Austrian Blinds are generally made up in lightweight curtain fabrics, and they will hang better and exclude more light if they are lined. They can be hung inside or outside the window recess. If they are frilled then they are best hung outside the window recess. These free illustrated sewing instructions will enable you to make your own frilled Austrian blind as part of your window treatment.

Requirements:

Austrian blind track (8inches (20 cms) wider than the window).

Lightweight curtain fabric.

Lining fabric.

Austrian blind tape. Length of finished blind * number of scallops + 1 length approx. Nylon cord. Approx twice the blind length + 1 width for each length of Austrian blind tape.

Pencil pleat curtain heading tape approx twice the length of the Austrian blind track.

Wall cleat for attaching cord.

Measuring Up:

Fix the Austrian blind track in the chosen position. If the blind is to hang inside the window recess, fix the track to the recess ceiling. If the blind is to hang outside the window recess, fix the track just above the top of the window frame.

To calculate the length of the blind measure from the top of the track to the bottom of the window frame and add 20 inches (50cms) (call this A) so the blind will have some fullness when lowered over the window, this allows for top hem and base seam.

To calculate the width measure the length of the track and double it, this allows for fullness (call this B).

For a double frill 3 inches (7.5cms) wide , you will need strips 7 inches (18.5cms) wide cut from across the fabric width. To calculate the length of frill required take the measurement "A" as above and double it and add this to measurement "B". Now double this figure to allow the frill to be gathered.

Example: Window length = 60 inches (150cms), so "A" will be 80 inches (200cms). Window width = 30 inches (75cms), so the track measurement will be 38 inches (97cms). So "B" will be 76 inches (194cms).Therefore frill length will be 2 * "A" = 160 inches (400cms) + "B" making a total of 236 inches (594cms). Double this making a grand total of 472 inches (1188cms) this figure does not have to be exact it is only an approximate length.

To calculate how many strips are required for the frill divide this number (472inches) by the width of the fabric, to the nearest whole number.

Cut this number of strips across the width of the fabric. If a pattern fabric is used cut the first strip and use this to match the pattern of the remaining strips.

Making the Blind:

Cut 1 piece of main fabric and 1 piece of lining to the measurements required. Join widths together if necessary using a flat seam. Press seams open.

The double frill is made by folding a strip of fabric in half, wrong sides together, so the raw edges are gathered up together. Pin and stitch frill strips together using a flat seam and press seams open. To neaten raw ends fold frill in half length ways with right sides together, pin and stitch across ends and turn right side out. Fold in half length ways, wrong sides together, pin raw edges together and press along fold. Work 2 rows of gathering stitches along the raw edges, row 1 should be 0.5 inches (13mm) in from the edge and row 2 should be 0.25 inches (7mm) in from the edge. If the length of the frill is long and unmanageable then it can be divided into sections. Pull up frill gathers evenly until it is half it's original length or 2 * "A" + "B".

Lay the blind fabric right side up on a flat surface. Starting 1 inch (2.5cms) down from the top of the blind, lay the frill onto the blind with the frills towards the centre of the blind. The raw edges of the blind and the frill should now be together. Working down one side, across the bottom and then up the other side pin the frill into place, finishing 1 inch (2.5cms) from the top of the other side. Adjust gathers if necessary. (See figure 2 above)  for help on corners. Machine stitch into place between the 2 rows of gathering stitches.

Lay the blind, right side up on a flat surface with the frills facing towards the centre. Place one piece of lining face side down on top of the blind, positioning it so that the raw edges match those of the blind and frill along the bottom and both sides. Pin and stitch these 3 layers of fabric along all 3 edges, 0.5 inches (13mm) in from the raw edge. Do not sew or pin along the top edge.

Turn right side out and press lightly. (See figure 3 above).

Lay the blind, lining side up, onto a flat surface. Cut 2 lengths of Austrian blind tape the length of the blind, making sure that the first loop on the tape will be 2 inches (5cms) up from the frill seam. Position the tapes vertically on the fabric, alongside the frill seam at each side. Make sure that the loops of the tape are aligned across the blind. Tuck the raw edges of the bottom of each tape under by 0.5 inches (13mm). Pin and stitch tapes in place.

Divide the remaining width into evenly spaced sections between 12 inches (30cms) and 20 inches (50cms) wide and mark these positions with chalk or fabric pen. The finished scallops will be just under half this size. Making sure that all the tapes are parallel and that the tape loops on each length are aligned across the blind, pin and stitch tapes at these positions.(See figure 4 above).

Lay the blind, lining side up, onto a flat surface. Turn down 1 inch (2.5cms) across the top (i.e. blind fabric + lining + blind tape) and press fold.

On the left hand side, knot the gathering cords of the heading tape together and turn under the tape end in line with the blind edge. Pin in position so that the top of the heading tape is in line with the top of the fold. On the right hand side turn under the tape end in line with the blind edge leaving the cords of the heading tape hanging freely. (See figure 5 below). Stitch the heading tape in place close to the top and bottom edges, making sure that your stitches go in the same direction on both edges i.e. left to right or right to left ( this stops the tape from puckering).

First decide from which side of the window you wish to work your blind i.e. left or right. These instructions are for right hand sided operation, just reverse the instructions for left hand sided operation. Lay the blind, lining side up, onto a flat surface. Cut  pieces of nylon cord for each length of the Austrian blind tape, twice the length of the blind + 1 width. Starting at the right hand side attach a piece of nylon cord to the bottom loop of the Austrian blind tape and thread it through all the loops (vertically).(See figure 6 below).Thread all the tapes in the same manner.(See figure 7 below).

Pull up the cords on the heading tape to fit the Austrian blind track and adjust the gathers evenly, knot the ends of the cords. Wind up the surplus cord and tuck it in to the end of the heading tape.

Hang the blind onto the track, positioning 1 curtain hook at each end and the others evenly spaced across the width approx 3 inches (7.5cms) apart.

Thread all the nylon cords through the cord holders on the track working from left to right (right to left if left hand sided operation). With the bottom of the blind at window sill level  cut all the nylon cords level with the window sill. Attach the acorn to the ends of the cords.

Fix a cleat at the right hand side (left hand side if left hand sided operation) approx halfway down the window. Pull up the blind and wind the cords around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.